With football season starting, it’s important to get in some quality outdoor viewing before it gets to cold and nasty, particularly if you just spent way too much to redo your back yard. So…can you see the television stand in this back yard? Can your spouse?

No, you can’t, because it isn’t there. You need a sturdy place to mount a TV outside, but one that doesn’t blight the landscape when the TV isn’t in use.

This post details my first attempt at producing such a stand. The idea is to build it out of sturdy piping that slides into anchor holes embedded into the ground. This gives the TV a sturdy base when you want it, but lets you pull the whole thing out and store it in a shed when you don’t, leaving almost no trace. I’m still experimenting with it, but this first attempt works pretty well so far.

Preparation

Most of the materials for this stand can be found at Lowe’s or Home Depot, and are not hugely expensive. Most of these you will probably need to adapt to your particular needs, but here is what I used:

• 1″ diameter, galvanized pipe
  • 2 × 18″ ready cut pipe
  • 1 × 36″ ready cut pipe
  • 1 × 48″ ready cut pipe
  • 2 × Standard tees
• 1¼″ inner diameter PVC pipe to make into to “J” pipes, something like
  • 2 × J-Bend
  • 2 × 12″ pipe sections that will connect to the J-bend. Make sure the galvanized pipe above can slide into this piping.
• Cement, used at differnt points in the assembly. I used:
  • 2 × Quikrete quik set cement (10 Pound buckets)
  • 1 × Quikrete quik set cement (20 Pound bucket)
• 4 × 1/4″-20×2″ machine screws (or similar), with nuts and washers
• Spray paint
  • Primer that works on metal
  • Dark gray textured paint
  • Small amount of black semi-gloss (optional)
• A post hole digger
• A Peerless® SF660 universal flat wall mount
• A mountable television. I used the Magnavox 32MF231 32″ LCD HDTV we normally keep in the bedroom

Even before gathering all of these together, though, you need to think your plan through. If you have a particular place you want the TV outside, before going through the trouble of building this stand, just set the TV up on a table close to where you want it and see how the picture works outside. In particular, does the glare from the sun obscure the picture? If so, you probably want a different spot.

Also, can you get power to where you want the TV? How about a signal (cable, satellite, etc.). Make sure you have all that figured out before you dive too deeply into this project.

Anchors

The PVC pipe should just barely slide around the galvanized piping that you’ll use to make the main frame. The idea is that this PVC will be buried so that the tops just stick out of the ground, anchored in cement. There are probably easier ways to do this, but here is what I did.

Take the J-bend and connect the 12″ PVC pipe to the longer end. Mix up one of the 10 pound buckets of cement. Sink the J-bend as far as it will go into the cement, so that it is totally submerged, but the straight pipe sticks up out of the cement. Look down into the pipe and you should see at least of bit of cement that has oozed into the bottom from the submerged end. This is fine, and should anchor the pipe even better. The idea of using the J-bend here is that it should let the cement grab onto the whole thing better than just a straight pipe would.

Set something to hold the open end of the pipe up as straight as possible while the cement dries. I cut a cross in the lid of the bucket, but boards or something should work fine.

Repeat the process with the other J-bend.

I suppose you could just pour cement directly into the ground instead of using the buckets, but I found the buckets were pretty useful in making the frame, as you could test the fit, move it around, and the buckets were heavy enough to hold the frame up for painting, even without being buried.

Frame

Looking at the picture above, you can see how the galvanized pipes form an “H”, with the 36″ pipe at the center. Since this is precut pipe, it should all screw together easily, and the long pipes make good levers to get it assembled tightly. It may still twist a bit, but don’t worry about that so much now. In case it isn’t obvious, the left side of the picture below shows a close up of the T connections.

Once assembled, test out the fit of the frame into the anchor buckets. The bottom legs of the “H” should just slide into the PVC pipe sticking out of the cement. Try to avoid jamming the frame all the way in, as it can be hard to get out if you do.

Remove the frame from the anchors and lay it out on the floor. Position the TV mount onto the top section to see how it will fit. One caution here: make sure to position the TV mount such that, when the TV is on it, no part of it collides with the cross bar of the frame’s “H”. I didn’t think about this, and it turned out that the TV’s built-in stand (which lets it stand on its own on a table) wound up at the exact same level as the crossbar, so I have to remove the stand to mount it outside, and put it back on when I bring in the TV. Sort of annoying.

To connect the TV mount to the frame, you’ll need to drill holes into the pipes. The TV mount should give you a lot of choice on running a bold through the mount, then through the pipes. The right side of the picture above shows an example. Drilling the holes is difficult. You’ll need a 3/8″ drill bit capable of penetrating dense metal. I would drill the top holes first, then position the mount again for marking the bottom holes. Once the holes are drilled, leave the mount disconnected.

If your pipes are like mine, they will probably be a bit greasy. Wash them with soap and water, WD40 or whatever to get them clean. After they dry, prime the frame. I put the frame into the anchors to do this, wrapping painters tape around the PVC to keep the primer off of it. Painting it like this allows you to get all sides at the same time. Once the primer is dry, add the textured paint. The picture above shows the texture I used. I also gave a light coat of glossy black to the bolts, nuts and washers that will connect the mount to the frame.

Once everything is dry, connect the mount to the frame with the machine screws. Now you’re ready to take it outside.

Planting

Put the anchor buckets on the ground approximately where they should go, and slide in the frame. Mark the spots on the ground, then clear everything away and dig some post holes. You want them just deep enough that an inch or so of the PVC pip will stick out of the ground when you are done. As always, beware when you dig in your yard. Is there a gas line or a power cable or something running where you are about to dig? If you don’t know, find out first. This is the part of the job where the wrong chain of events could kill you.

Maneuver the anchors (frame still inside) into the holes. You’ll probably need to fine tune here, adding and removing dirt to get the frame level, or to make the holes slightly wider and so on. The key bit here is to keep the frame slid into the anchors. Doing that should ensure that the frame will line up correctly with the holes and slide out cleanly. Once you are satisfied, the whole assembly should probably be standing on its own in the holes (this is another benefit of making the anchor buckets separately).

At this point, I decided to add some more cement into the holes. You could probably use rocks, or just really good dirt packing instead. After filling in the empty space around the buckets with dirt, I mixed a 20 pound bucket of cement and poured it equally into both holes. Again, I kept the frame inside the anchors the whole time.

When it was dry, I filled the rest up with dirt and covered it in mulch. As planned about an inch of the PVC sticks out. I bought some capping to keep these covered when the frame is not in use. (If you look at the picture at the very start of this post, you can barely make out these caps in the ground.) Getting the frame out of the anchors the first time might be a bit difficult. Best way is with two people, standing on the anchor spots and pulling hard. You may want to try putting the frame in taking it out a few times, just in case.

Mounting

The Peerless mount works using two basic pieces. One is a sort of rail, which is what you connected to the frame. To connect the TV onto this rail, the mount will come with something that screws into the back of the television (usually two bars that run vertically). These can just be left on the TV, even if the TV you use isn’t usually wall mounted (mine isn’t). Connect them according to the instructions that came with the mount. If your TV gives you a choice of mounting positions, connect the pieces as widely apart as possible.

With everything in place outside, test the strength of the frame. Mine is pretty sturdy, barely budging. I’m only using a 36″ television, but I’m fairly certain the stand could handle a larger one, but I haven’t experimented with that yet.

Connect the TV onto the mount. Typically, the parts of the mount slide together loosely, then you tighten some screws up to hold everything solidly. Follow your mount’s instructions.

Now run the power and signal to the TV. In my case, I can feed both through a window behind the stand, so there are no cords for people to trip on.

When it is all set up, it looks like this:

Conclusions

Overall, I’m pretty pleased with how this stand turned out, with only three caveats. First, the mistake I made with the built-in stand hitting the crossbar makes setting up the TV and taking it down again more painful than I was planning. I might move the Peerless mount down slightly. This will leave some ugly holes, but I can live with that.

Second, I don’t have a great solution for holding the cable box yet. It would be nice to attach a shelf in some way to the frame to hold the box. I’ve thought about cutting slots for shelf brackets below the crossbar, and adding a shelf that way, but cutting the precisely into metal is hard. There is probably some type of shelf designed to clamp to piping, but I have yet to find one. If you have a great idea for this, leave a comment below (with links, if possible).

Lastly, the mount might be a bit too high. For something like a party, with people standing and milling around, it works pretty well. For sitting, it is just slightly tall. If the TV was bigger, this might not matter, as it would hang down slightly. I could easily take a hack saw to the legs of the frame, but I’m leaving it as is for now.

If you try building a stand like, let me know how it goes. And tell me what you changed. Cheers.

Popularity: 5% [?]

My cable provider supplies a digital video recorder (DVR) that records high definition. It’s not a very good one, with possibly the ugliest user interface ever (from an application called SARA), but it’s adequate and gets the job done. Or did, until the DVR started to run out of disk space. It turns out that this particular cable box/DVR (a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD) has an external serial advanced technology attachment (eSATA) port on it. I happened to have some SATA drives left over from upgrading my RAID, so I thought I’d try to plug one of these in. This turned out to be a bit of a challenge.

The first task was to put the drive into something that supported the eSATA interface, which means getting a drive enclosure for the bare drive I had. I wanted this to be as versatile as possible, so I managed to find the OWC Mercury Elite-AL Quad Interface, which supports eSATA, USB2 and both flavors of FireWire. This case is quiet and solid, made largely from large pieces of aluminum. Mounting was easy, and I tested the drive on my Mac with no problem.

I also discovered a bit of a bonus: my MacPro has some spare SATA plugs on the motherboard, and the same company that sells the case sells a cheap doohickey that plugs into these ports, and exposes them as eSATA ports on the back of the machine. Simple, inexpensive and useful.

Anyway, connecting this drive into the cable box didn’t work. It turns out that the DVR is very finicky about both the drive and the enclosure that it talks to. Since its all standard interfaces, this is both stupid and irritating, but it seems to only accept certain combinations. My drives were Maxtor drives and didn’t seem to work. Possibly they are less standard than usual.

By this time, we were really running out of space, and I got a bit obsessed about gaining extra storage for the damn thing. I wound up finding a solution made specifically for the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD, with a money back guarantee if it didn’t work. This meant getting a whole new drive, so wasn’t the most cost effective thing to do. Still, I can use the Mercury Quad for other things, so it’s not a total loss. It was also an excuse to get a larger drive than that one I had.

From opening the box, it took all of five minutes to get this drive working with my cable box. Very simple, really quiet, works great, and roughly quadrupled our DVR recording ability. So, pretty happy with it, though a bit beyond the original budget. I have yet to try to unmount the drive and read it with a computer. From what I read, this doesn’t really work that well.

This summer, we also totally upgraded our main TV area, adding a Playstation 3 and flatscreen TV (which necessitated a new receiver that could handle HDMI, and lots of it). After connecting it all, and resurrecting some old hardware to make the 802.11n connection a bit more reliable, our setup now looks like this:

Popularity: 5% [?]

The Mac Pro contains four accessible hard-drive bays. Mac OS X comes with easy to use RAID software. Put these together, and you can quickly build a backup system using redundant disks, so that if one drive fails, another takes its place.

Building a RAID (meaning “redundant array of independent disks”) like this may be ideal for backups, but isn’t as useful for other applications of RAID technology (such as striping for great video encoding performance, and so on). This because the RAID is controlled by software, so is on the slower side. It’s possible to put an optional hardware-based RAID controller into the Mac Pro, but it is pricey and complete overkill for backups. The speed doesn’t really matter for backup use, especially when using Time Machine, since it is all done unnoticed in the background anyway.

Preparation

The key thing about making a RAID is that you need to use multiple identical disks. As mentioned, speed doesn’t really matter for backups. In fact, you are usually better off buying the slowest disks you can find because they a) will still be fast enough, b) are cheaper, c) are usually quieter and d) usually draw less power. The Mac Pro uses Serial Advanced Technology Attachment (Serial ATA or SATA) disks. The drives used in this post are a pair of 1.0TB Western Digital Caviar Geen drives, due to their lower power consumption and sound output. These drives use a variable number of rotations per minute, but are rated at between 5400 and 7200 rpm. So, these are not speed demons, but they don’t need to be. At the time of writing, Other World Computing had the best deal on this particular drive.

In addition to the drives, you will need a Mac Pro, one functional hand, and a standard phillips screwdriver. You might also want a grounding strap to prevent electrical damage to the components, particularly in dry climates or if you tend to get shocked by light switches a lot where you live.

To start the installation, shutdown your Mac Pro.

Hardware installation

Pull out the tab on the back of the Mac Pro, pull the top of the side panel out, then remove the side panel (click on any of the images in this post to see a larger version):

About a third of the way down, find the four numbered drive caddies. If this is a new machine, chances are that drive bay #1 holds the primary disk and the other three caddies are empty. These instructions assume that this is the case, and that you’ll put your RAID drives into bays #2 and #3. Adjust this to match your machine accordingly. It doesn’t matter which of the bays the RAID drives are in. Give a tug to caddy #2 (or whatever) and slide it out. It should come out without much effort; it is not secured with screws or anything:

Before unwrapping your drive from its anti-static bag, hold the bag and touch a metal part on the frame of the Pro. This should lessen the chance of a spark that could damage the drive. Unwrap the first drive and find the four silver holes at the edge of the side with the visible circuit board. Note that these are in the same orientation as the screws on the caddy. Line the caddy up with these holes and connect with a phillips screwdriver. Note that the “open” end of the caddy should point towards the back of the drive (where the copper pins are).

Put the caddy with the mounted drive back into the machine by locating the tab-like rails into which the caddy slides. These should fit very naturally. Once in place, slowly but firmly push the caddy all the way back in. It should be flush with the rest of the caddies.

Repeat the process with the second drive, using bay #3. Once done, replace the side panel by lining up the bottom of it with the space in the machine, then tilting the top back in place. Once flush, close the tab on the back of the machine to lock the side in place. Boot the Mac Pro.

Software setup

If all goes well, once you boot up, you will see messages asking you if you want to format the new drives. Say no to (or cancel) these messages. You’ll need to reformat these drives as a RAID, so no point in formatting them just now. Instead, launch the “Disk Utility” application (usually found in Applications/Utilities).

When it comes up, you should see the new drives listed on the left, along with your primary drive and your DVD drive. From the tab selections at the top of the right-hand section of the window, click “RAID”. Enter a name for your new RAID, such as “Backup”. Make sure “Raid Type:” is set to “Mirrored RAID set”.

Now select one of the new drives from the list at the left. Holding down the shift key, click on the other new drive, to add it to the selection as well. Drag the two selected drives into the large white space on the right-side section of the window. This will add two entries to this list, saying something like “New member: ‘disk 0′”. Below this list, click “Options”. Make sure “Automatically rebuild RAID mirror sets” is checked, and click “OK”. (This setting will correct problems in the RAID if one of the drives has an error.)

Click “Create”. A confirmation screen will come up, warning you that creating this RAID will completely erase the drives. This is a good time to make doubly sure that you have selected your new drives into the RAID, and not any other drives. When satisfied this is so, click “Create”. A progress bar will appear as the RAID is being created. When finished, you should see the new RAID show up in both the left side list, and in the right side section. While the Disk Utility will still show you the individual disks, everything else will see the RAID as if it is a single drive.

Note that the capacity of the RAID as a whole matches that of one of the drives, not their sum. This should be as you would expect. The whole point of the RAID is to act as a “virtual disk” and when a byte is written to that disk, the RAID software writes that byte to the same spot on both of the drives, making sure they each have a copy of the same data. Thus, either one can fail, and you still have a working copy of the data.

A short digression

Before setting up this RAID for use with Time Machine, a quick digression. For troubleshooting purposes, it is sometimes useful to get more information about the drives you are using. Six months down the road, for example, you might have forgotten which drive you put into which bay. The System Profiler application can provide a bunch of information about your system, including the drives. You can launch this app either directly from Applications/Utilities or by selecting “About This Mac” from the Apple menu, then clicking “More Info…”.

Once the System Profiler launches, clicking the “Serial-ATA” section will show a list of the drives in the machine. If you click on one of your new drives, the bottom right section will display all sorts of information about the drive. Two more useful bits of information are the “Bay Name” setting, which tells you in which drive bay the drive is physically installed, and the “BSD Name” field, usually set to something like “disk1s3″. This code is needed for a number of command line disk manipulation tools, so is good to know when troubleshooting problems.

Time Machine

Setting up Time Machine to use this RAID is the same as using any other drive. Just “Open Time Machine Preferences” from the Time Machine menu icon (by the clock in the menu bar), or by selecting “System Preferences…” from the Apple menu, then going to the Time Machine section. Once there, turn Time Machine on and select the RAID.

Popularity: 8% [?]

For those waiting with bated breath to be able to select “Add to Home Screen” while browsing Asteroid with an iPhone and get a sexy icon instead of a small thumbnail of the page, your wait is over. Sexy icon away.

This turns out to be extremely easy to accomplish.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Although I’ve used Duover for backups until now, I’ve decided to stop using it for two reasons. The first is that it seems to be floundering with the release of Leopard, making backups incredibly slowly, and generally flaking out. As an example, a daily backup from my kitchen machine took about 20 minutes under Tiger but, even with the latest Duover update, was taking over four days under Leopard. Not at all useful. Secondly, Time Machine is just really useful and cool.

So, I’ve just installed a 1TB Time Capsule backup device into my home network. It’s been a real breeze to setup, even for an Apple product. Simply just works. Even though I was pretty sure it would do what I wanted it to, I had a nagging suspicion that my network setup might trip it up, but this turned out to be groundless. My home uses two different wireless networks, one using 802.11g, to serve the older machines, and one using 802.11n to serve the newer machines at the best speed. (Hardware that runs 802.11n can also support 802.11g simultaneously, but doing so really slows down the 802.11n portion.) The additional speed on the 802.11n network makes a huge difference when streaming HD video to the Apple TV (though the g network can handle DVD level video just fine). My setup works basically like this:

I wasn’t 100% sure the kitchen machine (“Nexus”) would be able to see the backup service, but it works fine, just as a good network service should. As long as the machine and the device are on the same LAN, it appears to make no difference how it actually gets there, just as you’d expect. (That initial backup sure is slow, though.)

Popularity: 3% [?]

Most traditional holidays are syncretised perversions of even older traditions, which then get secularized into excuses to eat a whole bunch. Christmas falls, not coincidentally, close to the winter solstice, and borrows heavily from earlier winter festivals, featuring lots of gingerbread, candy canes, traditional hams and large family feasts. Thanksgiving, being largely a continuation of post-harvest feasts in Europe, has always been about eating. We have, of course, taken this to ridiculous extremes with turducken, a Thanksgiving dish prepared by…

…cramming a boneless chicken into a boneless duck, which is stuffed into a boneless turkey. Three kinds of stuffing are layered between the three kinds of meat and the monstrosity is cooked for a very long time. The end result, when cut, is a fantastic food rainbow that must be eaten to be believed.

Easter, which may or may not have been named after a pagan fertility goddess, falls conveniently close to the spring equinox, allowing the syncresis of rabbits, eggs and the rebirth of nature into a ritual about the slaughter and rebirth of God. Easter also now has been subverted into being about eating, though hasn’t yet been taken to the extremes of Thanksgiving turducken.

Until now.

Making Easter turducken is, fortunately, much easier than a traditional turducken, as it abandons all that pesky protein while fully embracing the empty carbohydrates and fat. While technically Easter turducken is a dessert and traditional turducken a main course, they should never be consumed in the same meal. That would be heresy.

As with traditional turducken, Easter turducken starts from the inside out. The core is formed with miniature Cadbury cream eggs:

Take an ordinary peep and make a large slit in the bottom, as deep as possible without going all the way through:

Stuff an egg into the slit, stretch the sides around it, and fold the peep’s tail down. Repeat with a few more peeps.

The outer layer finally makes good use of one of the more odious culinary travesties, the irritating hollow bunny. As a kid, nothing was more annoying that thinking you’d been given a huge block of chocolate, and it turns out to be empty. To get the egg-stuffed peep goodness into this abomination, first you must open the bottom. Anything worth doing is worth doing with power tools, so take a dremel and cut around the perimeter of the bottom:

Once the hole is made, stuff the now egg-bloated peeps into the bunny. Note that some hollow bunnies suck even more than others, and crack and fall apart really easily, so be careful. Once you’re done, put the bottom back on. The really ambitious might try re-melting the seam in the bottom closed with a crème brûlée torch.

Voilà, the loathsome hollow bunny is transformed into several thousand calories, as God intended. Many children wonder around Easter how it is that bunnies lay eggs. As a side benefit, Easter turducken illustrates clearly that this “theory” is wrong. Obviously bunnies lay chickens, which then lay the eggs. Mystery solved.

Now fully prepared, the Easter turducken can be eaten. There is probably some kind of psychological test about what part of the bunny you eat first. I always go for the neck. Since it is held together only by a cheap-ass hollow bunny, once you start eating your turducken, it will collapse rapidly. Be prepared for a mess.

Yummy. A guess at the nutrition information for a three peep turducken:

Nutrition Facts Serving Size:  1 Easter turducken • 98g Amount Per Serving Calories  456 Calories from Fat  158 % DV* Total Fat  18g 27%     Saturated Fat  11g 44%     Trans Fat  0g   Cholesterol < 15mg 4% Sodium  74mg 4% Total Carbohydrate  70g 24%     Dietary Fiber  0g 0%     Sugars  65g   Protein  6g 11%

Enjoy your Easter turducken. And bring lots of paper towels. And maybe a bib. Let me know how your own turn out.

Popularity: 100% [?]

After growing sick of New York radio, and to be able to hear Opie and Anthony again, I broke down and bought a Roady so I can listen to XM satellite radio in my car, a 1997 Saturn SL2. I elected to self-install the antenna and didn’t find much in the way of “how-to” information on the net. What follows is what I did. I’m not a professional, so follow at your own risk. Seriously. Messing around inside the center console of the Saturn has been known to do things like make the airbags spontaneously deploy. If this happens, depending on where your head is, it could conceivably kill you. I’m an not responsible for you hurting yourself. All I can say is that I did this with no problems.

You’ll need the following to follow these instructions:

• Size 15 Torx screwdriver or drill bit
• Black electrical tape
• Cutting tool (I used the scissors in my Swiss Army knife)
• Several hours

If you want to build a mounting block similar to the one that I did, you also may need:

• Miter saw
• Two or more medium screws (I used #6 x 5/8″ pan head philips)
• Dark (preferably black) felt with an adhesive back
• A drill with a bit slightly larger than the diameter of the screws, but not larger than the heads of the screws
• The swivel mounting bracket that came with your Roady
• A couple more hours

The antenna affixes to the car with a strong magnet, so one question non-Saturn owners might not quite get is “will the magnetic antenna stick to my car?” Unlike most cars, the Saturn’s skin plays no role whatsoever in maintaining the structural integrity of the vehicle. It’s basically just for show, so it is made of plastic. Good for stopping dents, not so good at sticking to magnets. Rest assured, however, that the hood, roof and trunk of the Saturn are metal, and the antenna sticks to them just fine.

The Roady has the ability to broadcast a weak FM signal through the XM antenna to your car radio, so that you don’t have to use the tape adapter and can just tune to one of 10 preset stations. New York radio is extremely saturated, so I wanted to get the XM antenna pretty close to the car’s FM antenna. The trick to this is to find a way to get the cable inside the car. Had I been more brave, I would have ran the antenna cable through the same hole the existing radio antenna uses. Unfortunately, this appears to require the removal of the right front fender. This looked like it might be doable, but I decided against it. Instead, I chose to run the antenna cable backward down the length of the car:

Start by attaching the magnet to the roof (the circle on the image above), then tuck the cable into the groove between the roof and the trim. As you thread this cable, leave a little wiggle room for the cable. As the seasons change, your car (and cable) will expand slightly in the heat and contract a bit in the cold, so if you thread the cable super-tight, it could snap. Continue down the groove until you reach the trunk (which you should open).

Lay the cable down the edge of the tuck (very loosely for now) until you reach the taillight. The tail light is your secret weapon here, because the bulbs inside are fed power from inside the car, and you are going to thread your antenna through the hole for the power cable. First you need to remove the cover of the taillight:

Use a size 15 Torx driver (the head looks like a star) to undo the two screws holding the taillight on. Once these are out, the light should just pull off. It might come loose while you work, so keep a hand on it.

On the body of the taillight, you should see how the power cord feeds into a plug on the light. You can unplug this, which prevents the light from dangling by its cable and gets it out of your way (the trunk is a good place for it in the interim).

In the housing of the light, you’ll see a rubber tube/plug sort of deal. The power feeds the light, while the rubber provides a seal to prevent water from getting inside the trunk. Black electrical tape surrounds the plug tube, which needs to be removed:

At this point, turn your attention back to the antenna cable. You should be able to find a gap through which the cable can be fed into the taillight housing:

Once through, you’ll note that the connector on the antenna cable is a bit too large to fit through the rubber cable seal. You will need to cut it a bit. Very carefully cut one side of the cylindrical part of the seal lengthwise. Take care to avoid cutting the tape around the cable within or, of course, the cable itself. Stop cutting once the cylinder part is mostly open; do not cut the “disk” part:

You should now have enough room in the seal to feed the silver part of the antenna plug into the hole. Reach around inside the trunk and find the other side of the seal. Push the antenna plug with one hand and pull with the other. This takes a little tinkering, but the seal is fairly elastic, so some force should get it through and poking out of the seal into the inside of the trunk:

Pull the carpet in the trunk back and pull most of the slack of the antenna cable through. Leave a bit of slack outside the car for now, just in case. The antenna cable is much longer than you need, so all of the excess will be bunched up in that little dip in the side of the trunk.

Go around to the back seat and fold down the right side seat. Reach into the trunk and get the antenna plug. If you look down onto where the seat back meets the body of the car, you can see (or feel, at least) that the seat back is connected to a piece of metal that sticks out slightly from the side. There is enough room to run the antenna cable on the outside of this plate. The idea here is to get the cable past the seat back in such a way that folding the seat up and down won’t crimp, rub or otherwise harm the cable. Improvise if you need to.

Once through, pull quite a bit of slack through. Eventually, you’ll tuck some of this into the seat and side, but for now leave it loose. Pull the cable between the front seat and the inside wall of the car, as close to the floor as possible. You will run the cable under the front seat but, since the seat can slide back and forth, you need to run the cable where it won’t get caught on anything. Fortunately, you can easily run the cable under the runners on which the seat moves.

The only real trick to this is that there is a big spring under the seat that could catch the cable. Fortunately, there is a black plastic mesh around part of this spring:

Eventually, you will tape the cable to this mesh with black electrical tape, so that it always stays outside the spring; however, you need to see how much slack you will have left in the cable, so don’t do this yet. Instead, find the panel on the passenger side of the center console. It has an indentation marked “pull”. Pull it to remove the panel. This exposes the fuses, but more importantly gives you a place to run antenna cable.

You should be able to thread the cable so that it comes out of the center panel right where the cigarette lighter is. Since you’ll be powering the Roady with the lighter, you can twist the power and antenna cables together to feed the Roady.

At this point, you’ll need to think about how and where you want to mount the Roady. I have the type of stereo that has a strange shelf-like thing under the tape deck, so crafted a mounting block that slides into this space (see below). If you want to do something different, you are on your own. Just make sure you leave enough antenna cable to reach the Roady.

Once you have figured out how much extra cable to leave hanging out of the console, run backwards along the antenna cable tucking the cable in. The idea is to eventually push all the slack back into the trunk, where the excess cable can be looped and stashed in the corner.

Replace the electrical panel. Under the front seat, tape the cable to the mesh around the spring. Tuck the cable underneath the plastic siding around the floor of the backseat, then up the back side of the seat and into the seam. Once in the trunk, loop up all the extra, tuck the loop away and replace the carpet.

Going back to the taillight, wrap black electrical tape around the cylinder of the seal that you cut open previously. You might want to use a few layers and make sure that all holes in the rubber are covered:

Reconnect the taillight plug, mount the light, and screw it back in. Your antenna is now ready.

If you want to mount your Roady like I did, make sure you have a Saturn with the hole/shelf thing below the stereo (if you don’t have this, you’ll need to find your own way). You will be constructing a block of wood that fits snugly into this shelf, then screwing the Roady’s mounting bracket into this wood. This holds the Roady securely, and in a good spot for tuning, all without making holes in your car. Assemble the materials mentioned at the top of this article:

On the wood block, measure off a piece slightly narrower than the Roady’s mounting bracket. You are going to use the back of the bracket as a “lip” that slaps right against the hole of the shelf, where the bracket is entirely outside the hole, with the wood block entirely inside. Don’t worry about about the height or depth of the block right now, just get the width right.

The hole/shelf has a taper to it, narrowing towards the engine, so you need to cut the block to match. Set your miter saw to about 3° and skim the top off the length of the block:

Your wedge may be a bit too thick to fit into the hole, so you might need to cut off some of the fatter end. Measure the height of the hole. On the tapered side of your block, find a point that is almost as wide as the hole. Mark that line, then cut the fatter end of the wedge off at that point.

Drill some pilot holes in the bottom of the Roady’s mounting bracket and screw the bracket into the fat end of the wood. Try to get the bottom of the bracket as level as possible with the block.

Your block may be too long at this point, but don’t measure yet. Instead, cover the block with adhesive felt. This gives the wood a bit of grip when put into the hole, prevents scratches and looks slightly better. Don’t worry about covering the back end for now.

Now fit the wedge into the hole. It will most likely stick out a bit. Start cutting bits off of the narrow end and refit into the hole. Repeat until the “lip” of the bracket fits snug against the edge of the hole. You can cover the back with felt if you want. It should look something like this (but less blurry, unless you’ve been hitting the margaritas while working):

Now mount the Roady on the bracket, plug in the power and antenna, and you are ready to go.

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